RAW FOOD DIET FOR DOGS AND CATS

This diet sheet is produced here with the kind permission of my friend and Homeopathic/Veterinary colleague Tom Farrington from Roscarberry West Cork who put it all together and gave me permission to use it here.

Here is a link to his site. http://farrington.vet.googlepages.com/ageneralrawfooddietsheet

Below is a diet based on the BARF Diet (Bones And Raw Food Diet) it can be adjusted to suit your dog. If want to keep him on a commercial diet Burns food is a fairly natural diet or if you stick to the commercial food then add finely grated raw carrot mixed into the food (it should be about 30% of the diet where you reduce the normal food by 30% this also helps with the weight ) it will also help with the Anal Glands If you are giving bones ensure they are large bones . ®

Best wishes,

Tom

Please Note: Although the dog version cats get the same but with the veg in smaller quantities and raw chicken wings suffice for Marrow Bones. For cats the veg must be liquidised as it is even more foreign to their diet than to dogs. Normally they get roughage in a pre-digested form from the intestines of the prey they eat.

This paragraph applies to cats where the diet is 95% meat or meat and bone (as they are virtually pure carnivores) with 5% or less vegetables nuts fruit etc which are best pureed and mixed into the meat – I often use aloe vera gel or aloe vera gel with berries as part of this portion of the diet and cats should avoid having a lot of liver as excessive Vitamin A causes calcifcation of the cervical spine. Also for cats the meat needs to be premium quality unlike dogs so the 95% lean or similar type is suited to cats.

Below is the diet, and it is to be added to or extracted from as appropriate to each individual pets requirements. The percentages given are equal to the proportion needing in making up the pets diet. It should noted that the supplements are not given every day e.g. kelp on an on off basis the oils the same and they should be changed around – Certified Aloe Vera Juice can be added from time to time instead of pureed vegetables – I usually grate the vegetables – this speeds things up and if the diet seems to be taking a lot of time to prepare you are doing something wrong and need to contact us.

The meat and bones are better given whole so the dog works its teeth, thus cleaning then. The biggest query I get in relation to the diet is – is it safe to feed bone? Apart from lamb ribs and lamb spine no problem (they can break and get stuck between teeth) I have fed my own dogs on this diet with no problems for several years now and have hundreds of dogs within my own practice on it – once again with no problems and in fact usually to great benefit.

This diet was originally tracked down by a client whose dog was allergic to dried food and vomited when fed canned food. She kindly got permission for me to copy the diet and subsequently modify it.

The bones and vegetables generally improve conditions such as anal glands and the diet works well for puppies and adult dogs in very old or sick dogs e.g. with liver disease and pancreatitis it can be modified to be low fat by feeding chicken or turkey as the main food with the bone! As fed it is a low sugar diet for diabetics that are non insulin dependent.

For cystitis patients adding Vitamin C is very important. Too much vitamin C will be recognized by the appearance of diarrhoea – just reduce it and it goes away. It can be swapped to with no change over period – so I have discovered as most pets just eat the raw food anyway during the changeover period.

The bones with meat e.g. a whole chicken or turkey leg are best fed at the end of the meal so teeth are self cleaned.

Essential Foods

Raw Meaty Bones – 50/50 % meat to bone made up of the following:

  • Chicken Wings, carcasses (backs) necks.
  • Neck of Lamb, rib bones etc.
  • Rabbit (anything the butchers got).
  • Pork Ribs (not barbecued!)
  • Muscle meat (minced) i.e., Beef / Liver / Heart / Kidney / Brains / Giblets etc.
  • Fatty fish raw, head and all.
  • Egg with the shell, put through a blender.
  • Large Marrow bones just to pass the time.
  • Vegetables, a good mix of root and others.
  • Greens, dark leafed ones are the best.
  • Sunflower / Pumpkins seeds.
  • Nuts (walnuts, cashews almonds, pecans – not peanuts and not salted!
  • 2 or 3 of one variety herbs. Parsley, dandelion, nettle etc. freshly picked.

All the above should be put through a blender with a little liquid, i.e. bone stock, or just water.

Add to each dogs food daily (less for puppies, tiddlers and cats)

  • Kelp – powder or tablet form.
  • Cod Liver Oil 1tsp.
  • Linseed/Flax oil OR Fish Oil – 1 tsp. or even better some Udo’s Oil.
  • Vit C 200mg per kg of dog.
  • Dried fruits.
  • Ripe fruit – fed on it’s own

These are the foods we need to feed over a period of 2 – 3 weeks.

One day a week is a fast day (not with puppies) when only liquids are given.

You may find your dog will choose to fast itself for one day. Follow your dogs instincts.

Apart from the fast days, feed meaty bones most days, ditto veggies

Mix the veggie pulp and supplements with the mince/ground meat

(and any organ meat you may be feeding that day) first, then feed the meaty bones.

Chicken, lamb pork or beef (pork is the least digestible, so best left until a good digestive system is achieved – my dogs LOVE pork trotters and tails).

Don’t only feed one type ad infinitum.

A meaty bone is defined as one that has 50/50% meat to bone ratio.

Chicken necks, wings or backs are ideal – RAW of course.

Freshly killed wild meat, fur and all is ideal – make sure no lead shot remains in the body.

Wholesome table scraps, if you dog likes to feel part of the family, after you have finished your meal

BUT absolutely NO COOKED BONES of any type.

Don’t feed all the things from the list of seed and nuts, choose something different from each every day.

Veggies can be almost anything from the root varieties, squashes, marrow, beans, dark leafed plants. Carrots are important. Variety is the key.

Remember veggies should be fed pulped, if you use a juicer mix the juice back in the pulp before feeding.

We find it’s pretty foolproof to mix the 1/3 cup (a cup being 8oz) of pulped veggies (daily requirement for a averaged size dog) with 2/3 cup of minced muscle meat of your choosing.

It usually disappears like lighting, then feed the meaty bones afterwards – until they say ‘enough I’m full.’

Nobody can work out for you how much your particular dog will need – if they get plump, cut back and visa versa.

Remember this is all pure, natural, wholesome nutrition, no added water, fillers or harmful additives.

A little therefore goes a long way. It’s as simple as that.

Providing you give the supplements, oils etc. that’s all you need to do

There is some concern over cod liver oil being given daily, if you dog spends time out in the sunshine then four – five times a week should be sufficient.

Ripe fruit is good for dogs, but only feed in small quantities and between meals, as it travels through the body very fast and would take everything else with it if fed at meal times.

Do not feed cooked cereals for breakfast

Grains or dairy are alien to a dogs digestive system and cause bloat, and skin problems etc.

They can not be digested, neither can un-pulped veggies.

Feed a chicken wing or two instead!

Do buy the book ‘Give You Dog a Bone’ by Ian Billinghurst, it will help you immensely to understand what natural feeding is all about.

We have progressed since this book was written however and no longer feed grains (cereal), dairy, yeast or any type of sugars other than the small amount of sugar naturally found in fruit and veg.

Feeding bone-meal is the greatest danger to healthy bone growth – raw bone provides everything needed for this purpose.

I also do advise you to buy the book ‘The Ultimate Diet’ by Kymythy Schultze.

Kymythy is a qualified Animal Health Instructor from the USA, who has been feeding her Newfoundlands raw for many, many years and studying the results.

Kymythy was amongst the first members, to join Anna and myself on the Newleaf Feeding List and is now on the Raw Recruits list. After a lot of convincing from the members on the Newleaf Nutrition List, she agreed to put her knowledge on paper and into print!

Abstracted and abridged from the Newleaf Nutrition List Diet Sheet, reproduced here with kind permission from Anna Carr.

Sarah Doughty

March 1998

Amended April 2002

Other References

Give Your Dog a Bone. Dr Ian Billinghurst

The Barf Diet. Dr Ian Billinghurst

Grow Your Pup with Bones Dr Ian Billinghurst

FIGURING OUT HOW MUCH TO FEED ADULT DOGS – FROM ‘SCRATCH’

We will take eight percent of bodyweight as a starting point for really tiny but active dogs, and work towards about three percent of body weight for really large and active dogs. On that basis, the TOTAL amount to feed DAILY would be as follows for dogs of the following weights.

1—5kg [2-11LB5] feed 90-350gm [3oz-l2oz] daily.
5—10kg [11-22LB] feed 350— 600gm [l2oz-2loz] daily.
10—25kg [22-55LB] feed 600—1100gm [2loz-39oz] daily.
25—50kg [55-11OLB5I feed 1100—2000gm [39oz-700z] daily.

This is a rough guide or starting point only. Every dog is different. Feed what you need to maintain your dog at a healthy weight. Remember, you can vary the proportion of meat to bone to fat to vegetable to offal in the diet. Juggle all these things around as we have described above. Do not allow your dog to become overweight or to become unacceptably thin. Do realize that the weight your dog wants to keep is muscle and the weight your dog wants to lose is fat.

Many older, sedentary dogs will only require two percent of bodyweight daily. E.g. for an old inactive 20 kg [44 LB] dog or an obese dog, feed approximately 400 gm or just under one LB of food daily. This is exactly the same amount of food [at the eight percent of bodyweight daily] you might feed to a young active 5-kg [11-LB] dog.

Yours Sincerely

Tom Farrington MVB MRCVS LFHom

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